You can ruin an expensive sheet in 30 seconds if you treat all materials the same.
I keep a reference card taped inside my laser cabinet because I got tired of remembering which acrylic melts and which one cuts clean. Same with wood. MDF cuts different than plywood, and if you don’t know why, you’ll waste time and money figuring it out the hard way.
This is not a complete guide. It’s a quick reference for the materials I use most in my shop. I’m focusing on what actually matters when you’re standing at the machine trying to decide on settings.
Wood Reference
Plywood (Hardwood Face)
What it is: Thin hardwood veneer glued to softwood core layers
Thickness range: 1/8″ to 3/4″ (1/8″ and 1/4″ are most common for laser work)
Cuts clean: Yes, if you have good air assist
Common issue: Edge charring on thick stock
Cost: $8 to $25 per sheet depending on size and veneer quality
My go-to use: Box sides, decorative panels, anything customer-facing
Notes:
- The face veneer is usually 1/32″ or thinner. If you sand through it, you hit ugly core wood.
- Glue between layers can gum up on deep cuts. Clean your lens after heavy plywood days.
- Birch plywood is the standard. It’s cheap and cuts predictably.
MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard)
What it is: Wood fiber and glue pressed into a dense sheet
Thickness range: 1/8″ to 3/4″
Cuts clean: No. Edges are always fuzzy.
Common issue: Dust. Tons of it. Wear a mask.
Cost: $6 to $15 per sheet
My go-to use: Test cuts, jigs, anything I’m painting
MDF core notes:
- MDF is also used as a core layer in cheaper plywood. You’ll see it listed as “MDF core plywood.” It’s lighter than hardwood core and cheaper, but it doesn’t hold screws as well.
- Pure MDF has no grain. It looks like brown cardboard when you cut it.
- The edges fluff up because there’s no wood structure. You can sand them, but they’ll never be as clean as real wood.
- MDF absorbs moisture. If it gets wet, it swells and stays swollen.
Laser-specific:
- MDF creates fine powder dust that gets everywhere. I run my exhaust fan on high and still end up cleaning.
- It doesn’t char the same way wood does. The burned edge is more of a dark brown fuzz than a black char.
- You can seal MDF edges with wood glue thinned with water. Brush it on, let it dry, sand it smooth. Repeat if needed.
Solid Hardwood (Maple, Cherry, Walnut, etc.)
What it is: Real wood, one species all the way through
Thickness range: 1/8″ to 1/2″ for laser work
Cuts clean: Yes, but grain direction matters
Common issue: Warping on thin stock
Cost: $15 to $60+ per board foot depending on species
My go-to use: High-end products, cutting boards, anything where the edge shows
Notes:
- Grain direction affects how clean your cut is. Cutting across the grain is cleaner than cutting with it.
- Hardwood is expensive. Don’t test settings on it.
- Thin hardwood (1/8″) can warp from laser heat. Keep your cuts fast and cool.
Acrylic Reference
Cast Acrylic
What it is: Liquid acrylic poured into molds and cured slowly
Thickness range: 1/16″ to 1/2″ (1/8″ and 1/4″ are standard)
Cuts clean: Yes. Flame-polished edges.
Common issue: Expensive compared to extruded
Cost: $15 to $40 per sheet depending on size and color
My go-to use: Anything where edge quality matters
Cast vs extruded acrylic:
- Cast acrylic is harder and more brittle. It cuts with a clean, glassy edge because the laser melts and polishes as it cuts.
- Extruded acrylic is softer and more flexible. It cuts with a rougher, frosted edge.
- You can’t tell the difference by looking at the face. You have to cut it or check the label.
- Cast is better for engraving. The engraved areas stay sharp and don’t blur.
- Extruded is fine for prototypes or anything you’re painting.
How to tell which you have:
- Check the protective paper. It usually says “cast” or “extruded.”
- If there’s no label, do a test cut. Cast leaves a clear, polished edge. Extruded leaves a cloudy edge.
- Cast acrylic snaps cleanly if you score and break it. Extruded bends before it breaks.
Extruded Acrylic
What it is: Acrylic pushed through rollers while hot
Thickness range: 1/16″ to 1/4″ most common
Cuts clean: No. Edges are frosted.
Common issue: People expect cast-quality results
Cost: $8 to $20 per sheet
My go-to use: Prototypes, painted projects, anything where I’m sanding the edge anyway
Notes:
- Extruded is not bad acrylic. It’s just different. If you need a polished edge, use cast. If you don’t, save money and use extruded.
- It’s more impact-resistant than cast, so it’s better for things that might get dropped.
Metal Reference (Fiber Laser)
I’m keeping this short because I only mark and engrave metal. I don’t cut it.
Stainless Steel
What it is: Steel alloyed with chromium
Marking method: Annealing (black mark) or ablation (white mark)
Common finishes: Brushed, polished, matte
My go-to use: Tumblers, signs, anything outdoors
Notes:
- Annealing is faster and doesn’t remove material. It changes the surface color by heating it.
- Ablation removes the surface layer. It’s slower but works on coated metals.
- Polished stainless shows every fingerprint. Wear gloves.
Aluminum (Anodized and Raw)
What it is: Lightweight metal, sometimes coated
Marking method: Ablation only (annealing doesn’t work)
Common finishes: Anodized (colored coating), raw (bare aluminum)
My go-to use: Anodized aluminum for color work
Notes:
- Anodized aluminum has a dye layer you can remove with the laser. The contrast depends on the anodizing color.
- Raw aluminum is hard to mark without coating. I use CerMark or dry moly lube as a marking compound.
Coated Metals (Powder Coat, Paint)
What it is: Any metal with a baked or sprayed coating
Marking method: Ablation to remove coating
Common use: Yeti cups, water bottles, painted signs
My go-to use: Cheap tumblers for testing
Notes:
- You’re removing the coating to expose bare metal underneath.
- Some powder coats are thick. You’ll need multiple passes or higher power.
Scrap Management
I used to throw scraps in a pile and then spend 20 minutes digging for a usable piece. Now I sort as I go.
Wood scrap bins:
- Bin 1: Plywood scraps bigger than 6″ x 6″
- Bin 2: MDF scraps (I use these for test cuts)
- Bin 3: Hardwood scraps (small pieces for inlay or detail work)
- Bin 4: Trash (anything under 3″ x 3″ or burned/damaged)
Acrylic scrap bins:
- Bin 1: Cast acrylic, any size
- Bin 2: Extruded acrylic, any size
- Bin 3: Trash (tiny pieces or scratched material)
Metal scraps:
- I keep a single bin for offcuts from sheet metal.
- Anything smaller than 4″ x 4″ goes in the recycle bin.
My rule: If I haven’t used a scrap in 3 months, it goes in the trash. Scraps don’t make you money. They take up space.
What I Do in My Shop
I keep this guide printed and laminated on the wall next to my material rack. When I’m setting up a new job, I glance at it to remember if I’m using cast or extruded acrylic, or if I need to account for MDF dust.
I also keep a sample board with test cuts of every material I stock. Each sample is labeled with material type, thickness, and the settings I used. It’s faster than guessing.
If I’m buying new material, I cut a test piece and add it to the board before I run a real job. It takes 2 minutes and saves me from scrapping expensive material.
Next Step
Pick one material you use most and make a test cut board. Label it with settings. Tape it to the wall. You’ll reference it more than you think.